What measures? What type of rope? How many ropes? These are the frequent questions in these cases. We will dedicate some time to understanding, and also demystifying, the most iconic element of Japanese bondage.
Although as a user or buyer of rope we will have little control over technical aspects related to its manufacturing, it is necessary to understand and know how and why a certain type of rope is used and its characteristics as a tool.
Choosing the Rope
Once we are clear that the rope is just a tool, and that handling it safely and efficiently is a requirement, let’s look at the options available.
The first option is "anything". The first thing you have on hand. If you have a solid technical foundation, you can secure a restraint with almost any element.
But in order for the techniques to be safe and maintain their effectiveness, it is necessary that the element be "soft". In this sense, metal shackles would not be a good choice. Using them with shibari techniques will cause injuries sooner or later.
Thinking of acquiring a standard setup, I’ll list some options.
Synthetic ropes: They can serve, but they are not ideal. We will not address them in this course.
Vegetable ropes: There are several options.
Cotton, Linen, and Silk are fibers that provide a very interesting feel. They are not particularly suitable from a handling perspective, and certainly, they should NEVER be used for suspensions or high-pressure bindings.
Coconut, Rice, and other ropes made from rough fibers or with many impurities and splinters. I do not recommend them due to their texture and coarseness, unless you are particularly interested in that sensation. But if you are going to cause “damage,” always do so under control and accepting the consequences.
Hemp and Jute. These are the ropes commonly associated with shibari. In part, for historical reasons and “tradition”. In part, because these are the ropes with which the techniques were developed, and therefore, they are the appropriate ones to carry them out.
From here on, when we talk about ropes, we will refer to jute ropes.
Measurements
There is no standard measurement, so adapting to the person who is tying is the best option.
Four times the arm span is a good starting point. This way, you can "move" the entire rope in just two strokes.
Having short ropes is also a good idea. You can make use of old or damaged ropes, saving the intact part. Or you can simply cut a long rope into several pieces.
Ropes longer than 8 meters are uncomfortable, regardless of the dimensions of the tied person (except for very specific cases).
The diameter of the ropes is one of the elements that influences their strength and manageability. A thicker rope will, in theory, be stronger and less manageable than a thinner one.
Therefore, if we are learning, 4 or 5 mm diameter ropes are perfect. They require less hand strength to handle, and with a thinner rope, the knots look sleek and beautiful, making it very rewarding to practice.
6 mm diameter ropes fall within what is considered manageable, and they have enough strength to allow practices such as suspensions.
This will always depend on the specific rope in question. Vegetable fibers, like all living beings, are not standardized, and there are significant differences from one rope to another.
What does it mean that jute rope is "alive": simply that it comes from a plant that was once alive, and that retains some properties that it will gradually lose. Its elasticity, strength, etc., are affected by the time that has passed since the fiber was cut.
Whenever a measurement is not crucial, it is preferable to indicate it in human measurements.
It’s not acceptable to carry a tape measure to an erotic meeting, but we always have our body. Therefore, measuring with fingers, hand, or arm is a good way to reference.
Manufacturing Jute Ropes
Ropes are made from vegetable fibers that are twisted into threads. These threads are then twisted into cords. And the cords are again twisted to form the rope.
Each of these elements "twists" in the opposite direction to the previous one. This creates a stronger rope than if we used the fibers in parallel.
JBO
JBO stands for Jute Batching Oil, which is the thickening oil used in the industrial processing of jute.
It is an oil that is used during the manufacturing of the threads or filaments from which jute ropes are made, added during the process to facilitate handling and braiding. It’s similar to a hair conditioner.
What’s the problem with JBO?
The issue with these products arises when the manufacturer uses mineral oils containing carcinogenic hydrocarbons. Not all manufacturers use mineral oils; some use vegetable oils (which also have their issues).
One way to identify whether there is mineral oil in the ropes is by its smell. Petroleum derivatives emit a distinctive odor—like petroleum.
The carcinogenic effect of volatile hydrocarbons is well-established. This does not mean there is a direct cause-effect relationship between using jute ropes with mineral JBO during shibari sessions and the potential development of cancer.
However, exposure to carcinogens or endocrine disruptors is a risk that should be minimized as much as possible.
Can it be removed from the ropes?
Yes. Through moderate exposure to sunlight (UV) and ample ventilation. Hydrocarbons are relatively volatile elements.
They could certainly be effectively removed with heat, or by boiling the ropes. But this would excessively damage their fibers.
Are there alternatives?
Some manufacturers use vegetable oils instead of mineral oils, typically motivated by the regulations and legislation in the countries where their factories are located. From a health perspective, it’s an advantage, but it has disadvantages that should also be considered.
On the one hand, there is the environmental impact—if they use palm oil or genetically modified soy oil, we are talking about unsustainable products that create social injustice where they are grown.
On the other, vegetable oils tend to become rancid from oxidation, giving off a really unpleasant odor, which is not appropriate for erotic interaction. To prevent rancidity, cold-pressed oils or antioxidants can be added, increasing the cost.
This leads us to the fact that if a manufacturer opts for a vegetable oil, responsibly grown and non-rancid over time, they will be raising the price of their product.
Are there JBO-free ropes?
Technically no. All industrially manufactured ropes are "lubricated" in the process. Some with vegetable oil, most with mineral oil.
There are ropes available on the market that are free from mineral oils, made from jute sourced from responsible and sustainable farms.
Rope Quality
The quality of the rope depends on several factors, some subjective, such as its ductility.
The length of the vegetable fibers, the thickness of the rope, its twist, uniformity, and the absence of impurities are objective indicators of quality in a rope.
A good practice is to get to know your ropes well. Cut off a small piece, a few centimeters. Look at its cut. Crumble the rope to see how it’s made.
Longer fibers will give you a stronger rope because the tensions are better distributed across the threads.
The twist of the rope (during its manufacturing) is a variable factor. There is an optimal twist level for each type of fiber, so it is not necessarily true that more twist always equals greater strength.
Low-quality jute (short fibers) will achieve its greatest strength with a lower level of twist than higher-quality jute (long fibers).
In this sense, the twist in opposite directions (thread, cord, rope) is more important than a higher twist in each individual element.
A low-quality rope with a high degree of twist is prone to breakage.
A rope that is too "tight" is difficult to handle, while a rope that is too "loose" will handle smoothly but will be prone to structural damage.
If, in weight or strength practices, "hernia" marks appear on your ropes, you should replace them with firmer ones.
A good rope is light and easy to handle. It doesn’t cause abrasions or roughen the hands of the handler. It should have the right firmness for the use it will be put to (different techniques/styles prefer different firmness levels). It should not shed excessive dust or fibers.
Jute always produces "hairs" and sheds fibers. Periodic conditioning will solve this problem.
Tie off your ropes with a simple knot made in the direction of the twist. Don’t do it right at the end, leave about 5 cm of rope. This ensures that the fibers are compressed evenly and won’t become unbalanced when tension is applied.
Ethical considerations such as the origin of the ropes, the cultivation conditions of the plant, or the manufacturing process are subjective factors, but you should also take them into account.
Rope Maintenance and Care
Jute ropes are an organic material of plant origin, so environmental elements affect them, deteriorating them over time.
To have a better experience with their handling and extend their useful life, it is advisable to take care of them. Below are some tips.
Preparation
If you choose to buy a raw rope, you will need to apply some sort of pre-treatment before using it, which generally follows this process:
- Breaking the fiber, to make it more manageable. You can do this by pulling it through a blunt object repeatedly. If you do this with the rope crossed, you will also rub its surface, helping to remove dust and roughness.
- Burning the fibers: The previous process usually leaves the ropes "messy," with many fibers and little hairs. The easiest way to remove them is by passing the rope through a blue flame (from a gas source). This will eliminate any leftover fibers.
Avoid orange flames (candles, wood) due to the soot they produce, which is harder to remove from the rope and leaves a certain campfire smell.
- Cleaning: The flame always leaves residues, and the combustion of the fibers also leaves residues. To remove them, vigorously rub the rope with a cloth soaked in cleaning alcohol, which is the most effective solution.
- Conditioning: Finally, condition the rope for use. Here we aim to protect it from environmental agents, mainly changes in humidity and solar radiation.
Since it’s an organic material, it has certain characteristics compatible with our skin or hair, so any cosmetic product free of harmful elements that you apply to your skin or hair and meets these requirements will be suitable.
Products containing tea tree or jojoba oil are especially recommended. I do not recommend using waxes or natural fats, whether animal or vegetable, as they tend to go rancid due to exposure to oxygen and light, giving off an unpleasant odor.
For its maintenance, repeat the steps as necessary when needed.
Storage
For storage, if it’s frequently used, the most appropriate way is to hang it from a bar or hook by the middle, so that it can ventilate, and gravity will keep it stretched.
If used less frequently, it should be stored with greater tension in its skein or spool. Think of them like delicate clothing. They should not be exposed to light or humidity and should be protected from insects, rodents, and other critters.
Do not store them in plastic bags or closed containers. Lack of ventilation will promote mold growth, and the ropes will deteriorate.
Knot Safety
In shibari, knots are hardly ever used, and in the few instances they are employed, it’s essential that they follow three principles:
- They should not be slipping; a slipping knot will tighten more and more, which will always be a problem.
- They should not collapse. They
should distribute the tension evenly.
- They should release smoothly when needed, without too much effort or force.
Aquí tienes la traducción de tu texto al inglés:
Rope Safety
A basic first rule is to leave approximately 4 fingers (about 8 cm) of space over each joint. This applies to every joint.
This is easy to verify: place your hand with fingers extended over a joint (such as the wrist). No rope should be in the space covered by your hand.